Hawkers loads senses with street food culture

A glow emanates through Hawkers’ indoor space, lighting pouring through red umbrellas that line the ceiling. Colorful, cartoonish comics cover the walls and newspaper images, the tables. The design is busy, cutting edge.

“For the price of a meal, we can transport you to the streets of Asia,” said Kaleb Harrell, Hawkers co-founder and CEO. “You can save the plane ticket and overnight flight.”

The energy is certainly reminiscent of that. It’s disruptive, pop music over the speakers — one-third of the business mantra immediately fulfilled. “Be disruptive. Always care. Never compromise.”

The second and third pieces show themselves later.

Hawkers, which launched in Florida, opened its newest location in Dunwoody April 24.

“We want to challenge the status quo on what restaurants look like in today's environment,” Harrell said.

Hawkers, named after travelling food vendors, was started by Harrell and his best friends — Allen Lo, Wayne Yung and Kin Ho — with a love for travel and street food. They still have family in Asia and made sure to incorporate generations-old recipes for the Hawkers menu.

“I always got the local version of wherever I went,” Harrell said.

Street food, an Asian subculture

Harrell said street food, especially in Southeast Asia, is its own subculture for locals but also “adventurous tourists.” He described it as a “sensory overload,” consisting of the sounds of ladles clicking against the wall, the smell of delicious food and smoke from the wood-burning grills, the neon lights.

“Everything around you is new and different, and you're experiencing it with all five senses,” Harrell said.

Whenever they would get back to the states, Harrell said they “joked” about taking street food from Asia and making it approachable for the mainstream palate. But that’s exactly what they did, opening their first location on Mills Avenue in Orlando in 2011.

There’s a total of 14 locations now. Georgia had its Hawkers introduction on Atlanta’s Beltline in 2019, which is currently under renovation. Harrell hopes to reopen it by the end of the year.

With more locations, Harrell described the need to examine integrity.

“Maybe the way that we make our pork belly is not exactly how we did it when we started,” Harrell said. “But if we need to make it easier on the team, or more scalable, how do we do it in a way that's even a better experience for the guests, rather than diluting what we've built?”

The menu, consisting of small plates, boasts all kinds of flavors, like Malaysian, Thai and Vietnamese, and comes with a complimentary spice tray. While the food may be the biggest focus, Harrell also made sure to emphasize Hawkers’ beverage program, which includes craft cocktails, beer, wine and sake.

A place for regulars

Sitting at a table feels like fast living, but also a place where you want to hang out for a while and be a regular. Harrell was attracted to Ashford Lane for a number of reasons, including the green space right outside the door where visitors can linger. Harrell said he didn’t want Hawkers to be somewhere patrons just grab a meal and go.

In just the first couple weeks of opening the newest location in Ashford Lane, some faces are now recurring, like a man and his dog Oreo. The patio is dog friendly, and general manager Samantha Benson said the staff are dog lovers.

“In fact, it’s a requirement,” Benson said. Soon, Hawkers will offer dog treats, and the patio will have dog bowls.

Benson has been a part of the Hawkers team for four years. Dunwoody was her third opening, the most recent in Nashville. Benson was once a regular herself, frequenting an Orlando Hawkers for a year before hopping on board.

“It's just a really cool concept — it's uniqueness, the fact that they care about their people,” Benson said.

Each location has distinct features, she said, like Dunwoody’s arched walls. Hawkers has its own shop where all the furniture is made. The detail of the restaurant’s design harkens back to Harrell’s comments about the intention of each opening.